How to Keep Curtains From Flaring Out at the Bottom

Curtains flare at the bottom for two reasons: the fabric remembers how it was folded or packed, or the hem is too light to pull the panel straight. Fix the memory with training and steam, fix the weight with something heavy in the hem.

It's very common, so don't feel bad if your new panels look like bell-bottoms. Start with the free fixes below and move to weights only if the flare comes back.

Floor-length curtains hanging at a living room window with a straight, even hem

Why do curtains flare out at the hem?

Fabric holds the shape it was stored in. A panel that sat folded in a package wants to keep bending, and the bottom corners are where that shows most. Side seams add to it: on many ready-made panels the machine stitching is tighter than the cloth, so it pulls the corners up and out.

Thin fabric makes it worse. A light panel has no weight to fight its own stiffness, so the hem lifts. Start by finding which cause you have, because the fix differs.

Train the folds

Open the curtains fully and gather them against the wall. Arrange the pleats by hand like an accordion, from the header to the hem, keeping each fold about the same depth.

Tie a soft ribbon or a strip of fabric loosely around the stack near the top, middle and bottom. Tight ties leave horizontal creases that are hard to remove. Leave the ties on for a couple of weeks if you can. It's slow, but it costs nothing.

Steam from the back

Heat and moisture relax the tension in the weave. Steam from the lining side, especially on velvet or silk, so you don't leave water spots or crush the pile. Work from the top down, and at the hem apply extra steam while you gently pull the fabric downward.

Linen is stubborn and needs more moisture. Mist it lightly with water from a spray bottle first, then steam. The damp fabric is heavier and drops as it dries. Check the care label before steaming any curtain.

Curtain panels at a window showing how steaming and training help the fabric fall straight

Which weights work best in a curtain hem?

Corner weights

Covered weights, small fabric-wrapped squares or discs, go inside the hem at the bottom corners. If the panel is already sewn, open about two inches of the side seam with a seam ripper, slide the weight in, tack it to the hem allowance rather than the face fabric, and stitch the opening closed.

If you have a puppy that chews or a toddler on the floor, skip lead. Choose steel weights and sew them in fully so they can't work loose. For anything a pet may have swallowed, call your vet.

Chain weights

When the whole hem billows, not just the corners, corner weights won't be enough. A beaded chain weight in a fabric casing threads through the entire hem and spreads the load evenly. It also helps outdoor panels that move in a breeze.

The penny trick for renters

If you can't alter the curtains, stack four or five pennies and wrap them tightly in tape so the metal never touches the fabric. Slip the packet into the open end of the hem, or into a small slit in the back layer closed with a safety pin. It gives just enough weight for a light panel.

Bottom hem of a curtain panel where a weight can be added to keep the corner down

Release the side hems

If the corners kick up even with weight, the side stitching is probably tight. Use a seam ripper to undo the bottom two inches of the side hem. The corner can then relax and drop. You can leave it open or tack it loosely by hand. The thread shouldn't be shorter than the fabric around it.

Add a liner or interlining

A thin panel often flares because it can't support its own shape. A flannel interlining between the face fabric and the backing adds body. If sewing isn't an option, hang a drapery liner behind the main panel on the same rod. The extra layer adds weight and rounds out the pleats.

Heavier fabric also helps with light and heat. The U.S. Department of Energy notes that fixed shades, louvers and screens can help control unwanted glare and heat, and a lined curtain does part of that job indoors.

Use magnets to hold the center

Sew-on magnets or flat magnetic discs attract through the fabric. Put one in the bottom corner of each panel, at the center where they meet. When the curtains close, the magnets snap together, pin the hems in line and close the light gap. This suits bedrooms and media rooms where you want darkness. See also how to keep curtains closed.

Pair of curtains meeting at the center of a window, hems hanging in a straight line

Check the length and rod

Length matters as much as weight. Curtains should just touch the floor or hover about a quarter inch above it. Panels that are too short tend to flare more, and heavy puddling hides the flare but collects dust and pet hair.

Extend the rod about 10-12 inches past the window frame on each side so the panels stack against the wall instead of covering glass. If you're planning bigger changes, a double curtain rod lets you layer a lining panel, and covering a whole wall with curtains needs extra weight at every hem.

As an architect, I'd fix the weight first and the fabric memory second. Steam and training help, but a weighted hem keeps working every day.

Room with neatly hung drapery that falls straight to the floor without flaring

Frequently asked questions

Why do my linen curtains flare more than other fabrics?

Linen is stiff and resists draping, and it reacts to humidity. Mist it, steam it, and add hem weights for the best result.

Can I use fishing weights instead of drapery weights?

You can, but they're often uncovered and irregular, so they can wear through fabric. Wrap them in scrap fabric first, and avoid lead if pets or small children are around.

How do I fix flaring on outdoor curtains?

Outdoor fabric is usually stiff to shed water. A chain weight along the hem works well, and heavy-duty magnets can hold the bottom to a post.

Does washing curtains make them flare?

It can. If the face fabric and lining shrink at different rates, the lining pulls the hem up. Follow the care label and stretch the hem while it's damp.