What to Splurge On vs Save On (Laced Up Edition)

Introduction

Designing a home is often a balancing act between the vision in your head and the number in your bank account. As an architect and interior designer, I have seen clients freeze when it comes time to sign off on purchases because they are terrified of allocating their budget incorrectly. The fear is valid; put money into the wrong items, and your home falls apart in three years. Put it into the right items, and you build a foundation that lasts for decades.

This guide is what I call the “Laced Up Edition.” It isn’t just about being cheap or expensive; it is about tightening the details that matter so the whole design feels secure, intentional, and polished. My background in evidence-based design (EBD) teaches us that our environment directly impacts our stress levels and cognitive function. A cheap sofa that hurts your back isn’t a bargain; it’s a health liability.

We are going to walk through the exact hierarchy I use on six-figure projects to determine where the money goes. We will cover durability for pets, dimensions for flow, and the tactile elements that signal quality. For a visual summary of high-low mixes done right, check out the Picture Gallery at the end of this blog post.

1. The Primary Upholstery (Sofas & Sectionals)

If you are going to spend real money anywhere in your living space, let it be on the sofa. This is the workhorse of the home. From an evidence-based design perspective, ergonomic support is critical for lowering physical stress after a long day. You cannot get proper lumbar support or cushion resilience from a bargain-bin piece.

Splurge: The “Bones” and Fabric
You are paying for what you cannot see. Look for a kiln-dried hardwood frame, which prevents warping and creaking over time. Ideally, you want an eight-way hand-tied suspension system, though high-quality sinuous springs are acceptable. For cushioning, aim for high-density foam wrapped in down or a down-alternative. If you have pets, this splurge is non-negotiable. You need a performance fabric (like Crypton or a high-rub-count velvet) that releases stains and resists claws.

Save: Accent Chairs
Accent chairs take significantly less abuse than your main sofa. Because people sit in them for shorter periods, you do not need the same level of heavy-duty suspension. This is a great place to buy vintage and reupholster, or purchase from a mid-range retailer. You can experiment with trendier shapes or bolder patterns here because replacing a chair in five years hurts less than replacing a sectional.

Designer’s Note:
When specifying a sofa, always check the “double rub” count of the fabric. For a family home with dogs or kids, I never specify anything under 50,000 double rubs. This ensures the fabric won’t go bald or pill after a year of usage.

Common Mistakes + Fixes:

Mistake: Buying a sofa that is too deep for the room, blocking traffic flow.
Fix: Ensure you have at least 30 to 36 inches of clearance to walk around any furniture piece. If your room is narrow, look for a “apartment depth” sofa (usually 36 inches deep vs. the standard 40+ inches).

What I’d do in a real project:
I would allocate 25% of the living room furniture budget solely to the sofa. I would choose a neutral, heavy-weight performance linen or velvet. I would save money by using less expensive throw pillows, which can be swapped out seasonally.

2. Lighting: The Jewelry of the Home

Lighting is the most powerful tool for changing the mood of a room, yet it is often the first thing cut from a budget. Lighting directly influences our circadian rhythms. Poor, cool-toned lighting can suppress melatonin and keep you awake, while layered, warm lighting signals relaxation.

Splurge: Eye-Level Fixtures and Dimmers
Spend your money on the fixtures that act as focal points. This includes the chandelier over the dining table, the pendants over the kitchen island, and wall sconces. These are the items people look at directly. Additionally, splurge on the switches. Every single light source in your home should be on a dimmer. The ability to control light intensity is the single biggest upgrade you can make for ambiance.

Save: Recessed Cans and Table Lamps
You do not need designer recessed lighting housing for general illumination; standard builder-grade trims are usually fine as long as the bulb temperature is correct. Table lamps are also a fantastic place to save. You can find beautiful ceramic or metal lamp bases at estate sales or budget retailers. As long as the shape is good, the price tag doesn’t matter.

Designer’s Note:
The temperature of your light bulbs makes a cheap room look expensive or an expensive room look sterile. Aim for 2700K to 3000K (Kelvin). Anything higher than 3000K will look like a hospital waiting room and will flatten the colors of your expensive finishes.

Common Mistakes + Fixes:

Mistake: Relying on a single overhead light source (the “boob light”).

Fix: Use the “triangle rule.” Ensure every room has at least three points of light at different heights (e.g., a floor lamp, a table lamp, and an overhead fixture) to eliminate harsh shadows.

3. Rugs and Soft Goods

Rugs are essential for acoustic control. In architecture, we talk about sound dampening to reduce cognitive load; a room with an echo feels anxious and unfinished. A proper rug grounds the space and absorbs noise.

Splurge: The Living Room Rug
A large, high-quality wool rug is a worthy investment. Wool is naturally stain-resistant due to the lanolin in the fibers, and it is incredibly durable. It cleans up better than synthetic fibers like polypropylene, which tends to hold onto oils and odors over time (a major factor if you have dogs).

Save: Low-Traffic and Outdoor Areas
For a guest bedroom or a mudroom, you do not need a hand-knotted antique. Use jute, sisal, or high-quality synthetics in areas where people keep their shoes on. Vintage runners for kitchens can also be found for reasonable prices if you hunt on auction sites rather than buying from curated boutiques.

Designer’s Note:
Scale is the number one issue I see with rugs. A “postage stamp” rug that floats in the middle of the room makes the space feel smaller and cheaper.

Common Mistakes + Fixes:

Mistake: Buying a 5×8 rug for a standard living room.

Fix: The front legs of all furniture in the seating arrangement should sit on the rug. Ideally, the rug should extend 6 to 10 inches past the sides of the sofa. For most living rooms, an 8×10 or 9×12 is the minimum requirement.

What I’d do in a real project:
If the client has a limited budget, I would buy a large, inexpensive natural fiber rug (like sea grass) to cover the necessary floor area, and then layer a smaller, more expensive vintage rug on top of it. This gives you the coverage you need and the style you want.

4. Kitchen and Bath Hardware (The Touchpoints)

In evidence-based design, tactile feedback is important. We perceive quality through what we touch. You might not stare at your door handle, but you touch it multiple times a day. If it feels hollow, loose, or jagged, your brain registers the environment as “low quality.”

Splurge: Faucets and Cabinet Pulls
The kitchen faucet is the most used appliance in the house. A cheap faucet with a plastic internal cartridge will leak and wobble within two years. Buy solid brass construction. Similarly, cabinet hardware is the “handshake” of the kitchen. Heavy, solid hardware makes even IKEA cabinets feel custom.

Save: The Cabinet Boxes and Tile
You can save thousands by using standard cabinet boxes (like IKEA or big-box store stock) and upgrading them with custom fronts and expensive hardware. Backsplash tile is another easy save. A simple white ceramic subway tile costs pennies per square foot and, when installed with a darker grout and good spacing, looks timeless and professional.

Designer’s Note:
When mixing metals, don’t go crazy. Stick to two finishes max. If your faucet is polished nickel, your cabinet hardware can be unlacquered brass. Just ensure the “undertones” of the metals don’t clash.

Common Mistakes + Fixes:

Mistake: Installing cabinet knobs that are too small for heavy drawers (bad for accessibility and durability).
Fix: Use pulls on drawers and knobs on doors. For wide drawers (over 24 inches), use two knobs or one long appliance pull to distribute the force needed to open it.

5. Landscape and Outdoor Living

We cannot talk about the home without mentioning the exterior. Biophilic design—our connection to nature—is a pillar of well-being. However, landscaping budgets can spiral out of control faster than interiors.

Splurge: Hardscaping and Trees
Pouring concrete, laying stone pavers, or building a deck involves labor and structural integrity. Do not hire the cheapest contractor for this; bad drainage can ruin your home’s foundation. Also, splurge on “specimen” trees. Buying a slightly more mature tree (15-gallon or 24-inch box) gives your yard instant privacy and shade, whereas a tiny sapling takes decade to make an impact.

Save: Annuals, Perennials, and Pots
You do not need to buy full-grown hydrangeas or expensive pottery from high-end nurseries. Buy smaller 1-gallon or 4-inch pots for your shrubs and perennials; they will catch up in size within two growing seasons. For planters, look for lightweight composite materials that mimic stone or terracotta.

Designer’s Note:
For pet owners, skip the delicate ornamental grasses that dogs love to eat or trample. Opt for hardy shrubs like boxwood or viburnum that create structure and can withstand a dog running through the border.

Common Mistakes + Fixes:

Mistake: Planting too close to the house foundation.
Fix: Keep extensive root systems at least 3 to 5 feet away from your foundation to prevent moisture issues and pest highways.

What I’d do in a real project:
I would spend the bulk of the budget on a high-quality stone patio and perimeter privacy hedges. I would leave the flower beds empty or filled with cheap mulch initially, adding plants slowly over time as the budget recovers.

Finish & Styling Checklist

Once the big purchases are made, the “laced up” look comes from the styling. Here is the checklist I run through before a photographer arrives:

Drapery Height: Are the curtain rods mounted high and wide? They should be halfway between the window frame and the ceiling (or all the way to the ceiling) to make the room look taller.
The Rule of Three: When styling a coffee table or shelf, group items in odd numbers (1, 3, or 5). It forces the eye to move around the composition.
Organic Elements: Every room needs something “alive.” This can be a plant, a piece of driftwood, or cut flowers. This breaks up the rigidity of manufactured furniture.

Textural Contrast: If you have a leather sofa, add a wool throw. If you have a velvet chair, add a smooth metal side table. Contrast makes the design feel layered.
Cord Management: Nothing ruins a “splurge” aesthetic faster than a tangle of black wires. Use zip ties and cord covers that match your wall color.

FAQs

Is it better to buy a vintage sofa or a new cheap one?
In almost every case, a vintage sofa with a solid wood frame is a better investment than a new, cheap particle-board sofa. However, reupholstery is expensive. If the vintage frame is good but the fabric is shot, get a quote from an upholsterer before buying. It might end up costing the same as a mid-range new piece.

How much should I budget for a living room refresh?
While this varies wildly by location and taste, a realistic “Laced Up” budget for a living room (sofa, rug, two chairs, lighting, coffee table) usually starts around $10,000 to $15,000 for quality retail items. You can do it for less with vintage hunting and DIY, but be wary of quality drop-offs below that range for new goods.

Can I mix high-end and IKEA furniture?
Absolutely. This is the secret to most great designs. The trick is to separate them. Don’t put a cheap laminate side table next to a cheap laminate bookshelf. Put the cheap side table next to the expensive velvet sofa. The high-quality item elevates the lower-quality one.

Conclusion

Creating a home that feels “laced up” isn’t about emptying your savings account on designer labels. It is about understanding the physics of your home—where the weight falls, where the hands touch, and where the eye rests. By splurging on the items that impact your physical health (sofas, mattresses) and your visual comfort (lighting, rugs), you build a space that supports you.

You can save on the decorative layers, the peripheral furniture, and the quick-growth plants. Remember, a home is collected, not just bought. It is okay to leave a wall empty or a floor bare while you save for the right piece rather than filling it with the wrong one. Trust the process, measure twice, and buy quality where it counts.