Curtain Rods and Hardware: Choose, Size and Hang

The rule for hanging curtain rods is simple: mount the rod 4 to 6 inches above the window frame and let it extend about 8 to 12 inches past the frame on each side. Choose a solid rod with sturdy brackets, anchor it well, and the curtains will hang straight for years.

If your window sits close to the ceiling or the walls aren't perfectly level, don't worry. Most homes are like that, and there are easy fixes for both.

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What curtain hardware types do you need?

A basic set has four parts: the rod, the brackets that hold it, the finials that cap the ends, and rings or clips that carry the fabric. Some sets add a center support bracket, and that one matters more than it looks.

Tension rods and mounted finial rods

Tension rods hold by friction between two walls. They suit lightweight panels inside a window recess and need no drilling, which helps renters. Mounted rods with finials are screwed to the wall through brackets and carry much more weight. For a living room with full-length, lined panels, I recommend a mounted rod.

If you have a cat or a dog that tugs on fabric, skip tension rods for anything heavier than a light café curtain. Friction gives way when a pet pulls.

Diameter and material

For main rooms, a rod of about 1 to 1.38 inches in diameter looks balanced and resists bowing. Very thin rods tend to look flimsy next to heavy fabrics like velvet or lined wool. Solid metal or solid wood is a better choice than hollow, adjustable plastic.

How do you choose heavy duty curtain rods and brackets?

Look at the span and the fabric weight. Any rod wider than about 60 inches needs a center support bracket, otherwise gravity bows it over time. Heavy panels also call for brackets with a solid arm and more than one screw hole.

Check the finials too. They should screw on tightly, since a loose one can fall and be chewed by a curious pet. If your pet is prone to chewing things, check with your vet about what to do if something gets swallowed.

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Which finish and style suit your room?

Black curtain rods are a popular choice because they read as a thin line against light walls and sit well with modern or industrial rooms. Brushed brass and nickel warm up traditional spaces, and wood poles suit softer, casual rooms. Match the finish to other metal in the room, such as door handles or lamp bases, and you rarely go wrong.

For curtain rods for living room windows, I'd go a little heavier in diameter than you would in a bedroom, since living room windows tend to be larger and the panels fuller.

When do double curtain rods make sense?

Double curtain rods for sheer and blackout curtains let you run a light layer on the inside rod and a heavier panel on the outer one. Sheers soften daylight during the day, and the blackout panels close for sleep. Daylight control matters: the U.S. Department of Energy's building science pages note that overhangs, fixed shades, louvers and screens can help control unwanted glare and heat, and layered curtains do a similar job indoors.

Double rods need deeper brackets so the two layers don't rub. Our guide on how to layer curtains with sheers covers the styling side.

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How do you install a curtain rod step by step?

Gather a drill, a steel tape measure, a level, a pencil, a stud finder, a step ladder and proper wall anchors. The small plastic plugs in the box are often too weak for daily use, so I recommend toggle bolts or heavy-duty drywall anchors.

1. Hold a panel up and decide where the hem should land: just touching the floor for a clean look, or with a 1-2 inch puddle for a traditional one.
2. Calculate the width. Add roughly 8 to 12 inches on each side of the frame so open curtains clear the glass.
3. Find the studs and mark them lightly.
4. Measure bracket height up from the floor, not down from the ceiling, since ceilings in older homes often aren't level.
5. Hold a bracket at that height, level it, and mark the screw holes.
6. Drill pilot holes slightly smaller than the screw (into wood) or sized for your anchor, keeping the drill square to the wall.
7. Set the anchors if you missed a stud.
8. Drive the screws until snug and flush. Over-tightening can crack drywall or strip plastic anchors.
9. Slide rings or panels onto the rod on the floor, lift it into the brackets, and tighten the set screws so it doesn't slide.

For more detail on the process, see how to hang a curtain pole and how to put up a curtain pole.

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How high and wide should the rod go?

Mounting higher draws the eye up and makes ceilings feel taller. If you're unsure, aim for the midpoint between the top of the frame and the ceiling. With no molding, about 2 inches below the ceiling line works. Going wide lets the fabric stack against the wall, so more of the window stays clear. That helps, because north- and south-facing windows let in natural light while glare and heat stay easy to control, and you want to use that light.

What if the wall or window isn't standard?

• Uneven floor: measure down from the ceiling instead. A rod parallel to the ceiling looks better than crooked curtains.
• Radiator under the window: use extended projection brackets so fabric clears the heater.
• Renters: ask your landlord about drilling. Adhesive hooks usually can't carry a full-length panel, and tension rods only suit light fabric.
• Curtains too short: lower the rod if you can, or sew a band of contrasting fabric onto the hem.

Apartment dwellers can find more options in how to put up curtains in an apartment.

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How do you finish and style the curtains?

Steam the folds once the panels are hanging. Then arrange the pleats by hand, tie them loosely at the top, middle and bottom, and leave them for a day or two so the fabric learns to hang. Wrap the last ring or grommet back toward the wall bracket to hide the side gap. If you use grommets, this grommet guide helps.

Frequently asked questions