Wood and Upholstered Headboards: Choose, Size, Refresh

If you can't decide between wood and upholstered headboards, the short answer is a wood frame with an upholstered panel. Wood gives you structure and easy cleaning. Fabric gives you a soft place to lean. Together they handle both jobs, and you can build one or refresh an old one yourself.

It's very common to own a headboard that is solid but tired, so don't rush to replace it. Below you'll find how the two materials compare, what size and height to aim for, and ten steps to rebuild an upholstered panel on a wood base.

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Upholstered headboard vs wood headboard: which is better?

Neither wins outright. It depends on how you use the bed.

• Upholstered: comfortable for reading in bed, softer against the wall, and it adds texture. It collects dust and needs cleaning, and fabric choice matters a lot with pets.
• Wood: easy to wipe, sturdy, and it suits farmhouse and rustic rooms. It's hard to lean against and can look heavy in a small room.
• Wood frame with upholstered insert: a solid border protects the edges while the padded center is comfortable. It's the option I recommend for most bedrooms.

If you sit up in bed every night, pick padding. If you want the lowest upkeep, pick wood. For help with fabric care, see how to clean an upholstered headboard and how to clean a fabric headboard.

What size and height should the headboard be?

Match the headboard to the bed: twin, full, queen and king each need a panel at least as wide as the mattress. As a rule, let it extend about 2-3 inches past the mattress on each side so it frames the bedding. That applies equally to wood and upholstered headboards for a queen bed or a king.

For a standard 8-foot ceiling, I generally recommend a height of 54-58 inches from the floor. That keeps it visible above pillows without crowding a small room. Too short looks skimpy, and too tall can swallow the wall.

Which styles suit which rooms?

Farmhouse and rustic upholstered headboards usually pair a chunky wood border with a linen or tweed-look panel. Modern rooms lean toward a slim wood frame with a smooth or channel-tufted panel. Pick the style that matches your other wood tones, and keep the bedding simple if the headboard has a pattern.

Beds with built-in storage and drawers often come with a wood base and an upholstered headboard, which is handy in small bedrooms. Check that drawers can open fully without hitting nightstands.

How to refresh an upholstered headboard with a wood frame in 10 steps

1. Check the frame and strip it

Remove old fabric if the batting is lumpy, stained or musty. Reinforce a wobbly wood frame with steel L-brackets and check plywood for warping. For a new backing, use 3/4-inch interior-grade plywood so it doesn't bow under foam and leaning weight.

Replace old foam. It crumbles and sheds dust, which you don't want next to your pillow.

2. Measure and calculate fabric

Measure the height and width of the face, then add about 6 inches on every side for pulling and stapling. With a patterned fabric, allow extra for the pattern repeat so the design centers.

3. Choose a durable fabric

Look for heavyweight upholstery fabric. If you have a cat, avoid loose weaves like linen and tweed, since claws catch in the loops. Tight-weave velvet or microsuede is a better bet. Ask the seller for the abrasion rating, and for pets I'd want a high one. Performance fabrics with a moisture barrier help against accidents.

4. Add foam and batting

Use high-resilience foam, 2-3 inches thick, glued to the wood with a foam-safe spray adhesive. Cover it with polyester batting, pulled over the edges and stapled at the back, to soften the edges and give a gentle crown.

5. Center and tension the fabric

Lay the fabric face down, set the headboard on it foam-side down, and staple the center of the top. Pull and staple the bottom center, then the left and right. Work toward the corners, stopping about 4 inches short, and check the front for wrinkles as you go.

6. Finish the corners

Pull the corner fabric straight up and staple it. Fold the side flaps over each other for a crisp vertical line. With heavy velvet, trim bulk inside the fold so it lies flat.

7. Add a dust cover

Staple black cambric over the back with the edges folded under. It hides staples and keeps the wall paint from getting scratched.

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8. Mount it to the wall

I recommend wall-mounting with a French cleat rather than bolting to the bed frame, because frames shift and walls don't. Screw one bracket into studs and the other to the headboard. Set the bottom about 1 inch below the top of the mattress so pillows can't slip into a gap.

9. Stop the banging

Stick felt pads or rubber bumpers to the bottom corners of the back. They keep the panel from knocking the wall when you sit down.

10. Dress the bed

With a solid neutral panel, add texture with boucle or heavy linen shams. With a bold pattern, keep bedding white or one color. Nightstand tops should sit about level with the mattress top.

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What mistakes should you avoid?

• Craft-store foam is low density and flattens quickly. Order upholstery-grade high-resilience foam.
• Pulling fabric too tight makes divots at the staple line. Remove those staples and re-staple with less tension.
• Baseboards push a headboard away from the wall. Notch the legs or add a spacer block at the top to keep it vertical.

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Finishing checklist

• Keep wall sconces about 8-10 inches from the headboard edge.
• Extend the rug about 18-24 inches past the sides of the bed.
• Repeat the headboard color in one small accent, such as a vase or throw.
• Vacuum fabric weekly with an upholstery attachment.

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Frequently asked questions