Decorate Living Rooms Side by Side Living Spaces: the 9 – Step Simple Plan

One of the most frequent challenges I encounter as an architect and interior designer is the “long room” dilemma. You know the space I mean: a rectangular expanse that feels too big for one sofa but too small to be a ballroom. Homeowners often push all furniture against the walls, creating a “bowling alley” effect that kills conversation and comfort.

Designing side-by-side living spaces is not just about filling a void; it is about creating distinct zones that function independently while visually speaking the same language. In evidence-based design, we look at how space influences behavior. A well-segmented room can encourage social interaction in one zone while offering a quiet refuge in the other.

In this guide, I will walk you through a specific 9-step plan to master this layout. We will cover everything from traffic flow metrics to the durability required for a pet-friendly home. To visualize these layouts, be sure to look at the Picture Gallery at the end of this blog post for real-world examples.

Step 1 & 2: Define the Function and Map the Layout

Step 1: Determine the “Why” for Each Zone

Before buying a single pillow, you must define the activity for each side. In my practice, I never design a room without understanding the “behavioral mapping” of the family. If you do not give a space a specific job, it becomes a clutter magnet.

For a side-by-side arrangement, you usually have a Primary Zone and a Secondary Zone. The Primary Zone is often the media area or the main gathering spot for guests. This is where your largest sofa and the TV usually live.

The Secondary Zone needs a contrasting purpose. It might be a reading nook, a conversation pit for cocktails, or a game table area. If you have pets, this secondary space is often the perfect spot for a low-profile lounging area where they can look out a window.

Step 2: The Floating Furniture Plan

The biggest mistake people make in long rooms is lining furniture up against the perimeter. This creates a “dead zone” in the center of the room. To fix this, you must float your furniture.

Pull your seating arrangements toward the center of the room. You want to create two distinct islands of furniture. In a standard 14-foot wide room, you should aim to have your furniture groups sitting roughly in the middle, allowing circulation on the sides.

Designer’s Note:
When floating furniture, back-to-back placement is often the most efficient use of space. Place a sofa facing the TV in zone one, and a console table or a pair of chairs behind it facing zone two. This creates a soft physical barrier that defines the rooms without blocking light.

Step 3 & 4: Grounding the Spaces with Rugs

Step 3: The Dual Rug Rule

Rugs are the most effective tool for zoning a side-by-side living space. They act as visual islands that hold the furniture together. Without them, your furniture will look like it is drifting away.

You generally need two large rugs. A common error is buying rugs that are too small, known in the industry as the “postage stamp effect.” Your rug should be large enough that at least the front legs of all major seating pieces rest on it.

Step 4: Managing Rug Scale and Coordination

For spacing, aim to leave about 12 to 18 inches of bare floor between the rug edge and the wall. More importantly, leave distinct space between the two rugs. You want a “breathing room” of floor visible between the two zones—usually 2 to 4 feet.

Do the rugs need to match? No, and I usually prefer they don’t. However, they must be cousins, not strangers. If one rug is a bold geometric pattern, keep the second rug tonal or solid with a complementary texture.

Common Mistakes + Fixes:
Mistake: Using two high-pile shag rugs in a home with dogs.
Fix: Evidence-based design suggests ease of maintenance reduces stress. For pet owners, I recommend a vintage-style printed rug (polyester blends are great) for high-traffic zones and a tighter wool loop for the lower-traffic reading zone.

Step 5 & 6: Establishing Flow and Selecting Furniture

Step 5: Calculate Circulation Paths

Circulation is the invisible architecture of a room. In a side-by-side layout, you must ensure people (and pets) can move through the room without interrupting the activity in either zone.

We follow specific anthropometric standards here. A major walkway needs to be 30 to 36 inches wide. If you have a tight space, you can squeeze down to 24 inches, but that is the absolute minimum for comfort.

Ensure the path from the door to the kitchen or hallway is direct. You do not want a layout that forces someone to weave through the coffee table area just to get a glass of water.

Step 6: Playing with Visual Weight and Height

To keep the room from feeling like a furniture showroom, vary the visual weight of your pieces. If Zone A has a heavy, skirted sectional sofa, Zone B should feel lighter.

I often use chairs with open legs or exposed wood frames in the secondary zone. This allows light to pass through and keeps the room from feeling “stuffed.”

For pet-friendly homes, this is also strategic. Heavier furniture goes where the dogs lounge (harder to move), while lighter, sculptural chairs go in the conversation area.

What I’d do in a real project:

Zone A (TV): A deep sectional with performance velvet (easy to clean).

Divider: A low, long bookshelf placed behind the sectional.
Zone B (Reading): Two swivel chairs. Swivels are fantastic for social flow because they can turn to face the sofa or turn toward the window.

Step 7 & 8: Cohesion Through Color and Light

Step 7: The Thread of Color

While the zones have different functions, they must share a color palette to feel calm and organized. I typically use the 60-30-10 rule, but I tweak it for two spaces.

Pick one main neutral color (the 60%) for walls and large upholstery in both zones. Then, take your secondary color (the 30%) and use it heavily in Zone A, but only as an accent in Zone B.

For example, if you use navy blue pillows on the main sofa, use a navy blue throw blanket on the chair in the second zone. This repetition allows the eye to travel smoothly across the entire length of the room.

Step 8: Layered Lighting Plans

Lighting is often the failure point in DIY designs. You cannot light a double room with just overhead recessed cans. You need to lower the light to human scale.

Each zone needs its own “triangle of light.” This usually means a combination of a floor lamp and a table lamp in each area.

Use lighting to define the mood. Zone A might have task lighting for reading, while Zone B uses soft, dimmable ambient lamps for conversation. Ensure all bulbs have the same color temperature—I strictly recommend 2700K to 3000K for living spaces. Anything higher will feel like a hospital.

Step 9: Vertical Interest and Biophilia

Step 9: Breaking the Horizontal Line

Long rooms suffer from “horizontalitis”—everything is low and flat. You need to draw the eye up. This is where architecture and window treatments come in.

Install curtains as high as possible, ideally just below the cornice or ceiling line. If the room has windows spanning both zones, treat them identically. Changing curtain styles halfway through a room disjoints the space.

incorporate biophilia (plant life) to bridge the gap. A tall fiddle leaf fig or a large indoor tree placed in the dead space between the two zones acts as a beautiful, organic divider. It absorbs sound, which is crucial in large rooms, and adds a calming natural element.

Designer’s Note:
If you have cats, skip the tree and opt for wall-mounted shelving or art. A tall bookshelf placed between the zones can also serve this vertical function without becoming a climbing post.

Finish & Styling Checklist

Once the furniture is in place, we move to the final layer. This is where the personality of the home shines through. Use this checklist to ensure you haven’t missed the details.

The Sneeze Test: Are your textiles trapping dust and hair? If you have pets, ensure your throw pillows have removable, washable covers.
Table Reach: Every seat needs a surface within arm’s reach (about 14-18 inches away) to set down a drink.
Art Scale: Do not use tiny art on big walls. In a large side-by-side room, use one oversized piece in one zone and a gallery wall in the other to create visual hierarchy.

Texture check: Do you have a mix? Wood, metal, fabric, and stone should all be present to create depth.
Cable Management: In open layouts, cords are more visible. Use cord covers or run them under rugs (safely) to keep the floor visual clean.

FAQs

How do I handle the TV in a side-by-side layout?
Place the TV in the “darker” end of the room if possible to reduce glare. Ideally, position it on the wall opposite the traffic flow so people walking by don’t block the screen. If the room is very wide, the TV can go on a perpendicular wall, using the sofa to divide the room.

Can I use different metal finishes in the two spaces?
Yes, mixing metals is encouraged, but keep it intentional. If Zone A has a brass chandelier, try to incorporate a brass table lamp or picture frame in Zone B. I usually stick to mixing two metals max (e.g., black and brass) to keep it cohesive.

What if my room is narrow?
If your room is less than 12 feet wide, putting two full seating zones side-by-side is tough. Instead, make Zone A your seating area and Zone B a dining area or a dedicated home office with a slim desk. The principles of rug separation and lighting remain the same.

How do I keep dog toys from taking over both zones?
Designate a specific “drop zone” basket. I like to use heavy woven baskets or stiff felt bins that look like decor. Place one in the secondary zone. Dogs are creatures of habit; if you consistently return toys to that bin, they will eventually look for them there.

Conclusion

Designing side-by-side living spaces is essentially a puzzle of proportion and flow. It requires you to be disciplined about layout but creative with connection. By following this 9-step plan, you move away from the cavernous, undefined “bowling alley” and toward a home that serves multiple purposes simultaneously.

Remember the core tenets of evidence-based design: the environment should support the user. Whether you are hosting a large party that spills across both zones or just reading while your dog naps in the sun nearby, the space should feel effortless.

Start with the function, ground the space with rugs, and layer in your lighting. The result will be a home that feels curated, professional, and deeply comfortable.